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Waqrapukara, the horn-shaped Inca fortress

Posted On: 10 April 2023 #TierrasVivas 751

In runasimi "waqra" is horn and "pukara" the equivalent of strength. Seeing the photograph the name is more than eloquent. But the shepherds of the communities of Acos, to the south of the city of Cusco, also know it as Llamapukara: "they are not horns, they assure that they are the little ears of a llama that is alert in the presence of foreigners." 

Despite its almost impregnable location at the top of a peak over the abysses that overlook the Apurímac River canyon and over 4,300 m a.s.l. no. m. There are at least four ancient roads that lead to this fortress. 

Undoubtedly, both "ears" or "horns" were a reason for sacralization among its builders. The best preserved are its walls, stairs, terraces and finely carved stone rooms in the best classic Inca style. 

For the archaeologist Miguel Cornejo, Waqrapukara represents the “architecture of power. It is an Inca sanctuary of the first order, which denotes an immense political and religious power that has not yet been deciphered”, says Cornejo. “Before accessing Waqrapukara, you come to a space formed by fluvial and wind erosion. The entire natural environment warns from afar that you are coming to a special place, out of the ordinary, of incomparable beauty”, adds the PUCP archaeologist. 

Waqrapukara is a good destination for adventure and experiential tourism. The truth is that this route does not ask for tourists, it requires expeditionaries. 

Unlike other destinations with crowds of visitors, in Waqrapukara you can camp in the surroundings. I recommend enjoying the night sky. Perhaps you will find the reason why its ancient builders chose this magical and mysterious place. 

Location

The Waqrapukara Archaeological Complex is located in the district of Acos, province of Acomayo, department of Cusco. 

Height

The Waqrapukara Archaeological Complex is 4,300 meters above sea level. 

Etymology or meaning of his name

The denomination, Waqrapukara, seems to be in current use as it is translated as fortress of the horns, making a clear allusion to the horns of cattle that are of recent presence in the area, in addition, there is perhaps a previous denomination among the population, LlamaPukara, which would translate as llama fortress, which would reveal a much more coherent analogy with the local culture, there is also the name Llaqtapukara which would translate as "people's barracks", which perhaps alludes to the place, ultimately refuge of the resistance that the Qanchis people opposed to the Inca empire and finally we can quote the Archaeologist Miguel Cornejo who, beyond a linguistic interpretation, indicates that the place represents "the architecture of Power" 

Climate and Temperature:

The climate of the place corresponds to that of the entire Cusco region with the two respective seasons that between May and October are in the cold-dry period and between the months of November and April in the rainy season, on the other hand, the winds can be constant and increase between the months of August and September due to the geography of the place. 

Finally, temperatures can have a maximum of 19 degrees Celsius and a minimum of -6 degrees on the coldest and harshest nights.

History

The Waqrapukara archaeological site appears to have undergone various stages of human occupation, being in all of them an important site of religious administrative origin. 

The first of the ethnic groups to occupy it was apparently that of the Qanchis, who according to Luis Barreda Murillo appeared approximately in the year 2500 BC, in the pre-ceramic period, having during this historical period the function of a shrine in honor of the god Teqsi Pachacamaq. Wiraqocha as mentioned in the chronicle of Human Poma de Ayala. 

The Qanchis ethnic group was conquered by the Incas as part of the Inca expansion plan over the Aymara tribes, giving this place an administrative use in the same way due to its strategic location, and in turn continuing its religious use as was the regular custom in the conquered peoples. 

Already during the Inca period there is a chronicle of one of the many uprisings that the Inca state had to put down in many of the already conquered territories, in which it narrates the uprising of the Qanchi people against Wayna Qapaq due to the increase in the payment of tributes, which were collected in looms or fabrics. The leader of this rebellion named Ttito Qosñipa was defeated after offering a resistance of several months taking refuge in Waqrapukara, possibly during this period he built the two characteristic towers that he used as strategic surveillance posts. There is a similar story (which is also a chronicle) that has remained in the memory of the population, which mentions the benevolence of the Inca towards the rebel leader of the Qanchis, which shows the application of political mechanics that made it give this caudillo a ñusta or princess of the Inca royalty as a wife, to later incorporate him into the Inca army that marched in that period to the conquest of the current equator and the place of resistance (Waqrapukara) was established as an official Inca sanctuary of worship to the God sun. 

The place is recognized as Cultural Heritage of the Nation since July 17, 2017. 

How to get to Waqrapukara?

At the moment there is no public transport that reaches the walking points, it is advisable to go in a private vehicle or hire a tour. 

Arrive by Sangarará (short route)

Depart from Cusco in private mobility to the District of Sangarará. Then take the detour until you reach Punta Carretera. Here begins the 8 km walk to reach Waqrapukara, the duration of the walk is 2 hours and 30 minutes one way and the return is approximately 3 hours and 30 minutes. 

Arriving through the Community of Huayqui

Waqrapukara can be reached from Acomayo following the Huáscar branch that goes to the peasant community of Huayqui. It is a bridle path of approximately 7.5 kilometers.

Getting through Saint Lucia

From Cusco to the detour to Acomayo (buses and buses that go to Sicuani), from here by taxi or bus to Pomacanchi. To go to Saint Lucia it is recommended to rent a vehicle (public service is scarce).

Difficulty

The difficulty it has would be medium to high. The walk is usually long and uphill, so people who are not in good physical condition may have some problems going up. 

However, it is worth the effort, since the views are truly spectacular; and throughout the journey you can appreciate the various natural beauties. If you take the route through Sangarará on the way, you will appreciate Vicuñas in its natural area.

Tours to Waqrapukara

Tours to Waqrapukara for 1 day have a cost that varies from 60 to 80 dollars. They include everything you need for the trip: complete transportation, lunch, entrance fee, tour guide and utensils for the walk. You can hire a tour with the tourism agency of your choice.

The 2-day Waqrapukara tours include a night camping next to the Inca archaeological site. Prices range from 140 to 200 dollars per person. Includes: full transportation, food (breakfast, lunch and dinner), entrance fee, tour guide and utensils for the walk. Prices vary depending on the tourism agency you choose.

Can I go on my own?

Waqrapukara is also a destination that can be visited on your own. To do this, you must take public transport to Cusipata (located on Huayruropata avenue in the city of Cusco). Once there you must take another public transport to the town of Sangarará. There begins the walk to the Inca archaeological site. The return trip takes the same return route.

More information

  • From the top of Waqrapukara the winds are strong. The temperature during the day can reach 23ºC. while at night the cold can drop to 0ºC. During the visit, it is best to wear a windbreaker jacket, comfortable pants and shoes, as well as a poncho in case of rain.
  • The walk that leads to Waqrapukara follows ancient routes built by the Incas (the famous qhapac ñan or Inca road network). Some researchers suggest that the route there was a pilgrimage. There are still many mysteries to unveil in Waqrapukara.
  • The best time to visit Waqrapukara is during the months with little rain (from May to October). The rest of the year, especially January, February and March, the constant rains can prevent a comfortable walk there.

A few other recommendations for an awesome experience.

  • Wear suitable walking shoes, or at least thick-soled sneakers.
  • Do warm-up exercises prior to the start of the walk, this will prevent possible muscle contractures.
  • Take into account the weather that is prevailing at the time in which you carry out the activity.
  • Take into account that it is preferable to leave this activity for days after your arrival.
  • We recommend acclimatizing, which implies that you monitor the effects that altitude produces on you from the first moment you set foot on Cusco soil.
  • Take something extra to eat, water and some dried fruit, they will be the best response to your physical needs.
  • Bring a change of clothes to use at the end of the activity.
  • Warm and light and warm clothing.
  • Use trekking poles, they help a lot with the physical effort.
  • Don't stop using sunscreen.
  • Do not drink alcohol the day before the activity.

Other activities you can do

Waqrapukara Festival:

The Waqrapukara festival is a cultural activity promoted every year by the local government of the Acos district, this in order to promote the folkloric gathering and the cultural revaluation of the archaeological landscape of Waqrapukara. The activities consist of the staging of the already legendary Qanchis resistance against the Inca Wayna Qapaq, which is divided into 4 acts that are followed by around 15 typical dances of the region, which brighten up the festivities in progress. 

This activity is carried out in the month of August, being a perfect date for a visit to the place. 

Mountain biking:

With a scheduled activity on a properly designed route, it is possible to cycle as part of the activities in the direction of the Waqrapukara archaeological center. 

Kayaking:

In the calm lagoons surrounding the route towards Waqrapukara it is possible to practice kayaking as a complementary activity. 

ATVs:

It can be done as a complementary activity and as part of the route to the attraction.

Best Trekking and Tours in Peru

Many are the routes that take you to Machu Picchu, but none is like the Inca Trail Tours, the most famous pedestrian path in the Americas. After flying from the capital of Peru, Lima, you will arrive in Cusco to walk for four days along a path through forests and dense fog, millenary stone steps and discovering the ruins of ancient fortifications and Inca cities, and all the time enjoying majestic views. 

If you want to visit Machu Picchu, we recommend you to book your Machu Picchu Ticket in advance, so you will enjoy your Vacation in Machu Picchu without any problem. 

Edwin Caviedes Profesional guide

Edwin Caviedes is the founder and manager of Tierras Vivas, a company that benefits native people communities.