Why I Love Guiding on the Inca Trail
For years, I've had the privilege of guiding travelers along the Inca Trail, sharing our Peruvian culture and history while creating memories that will last a lifetime. What makes this work meaningful goes beyond the stunning landscapes. Every porter, cook, and guide at Tierras Vivas supports a family—including mine. That's why we're committed to responsible tourism. We partner with Responsible People Foundation, an organization dedicated to protecting and supporting the communities of the Andes who preserve our identity, traditions, and heritage.
This is the story of what it's like to guide the Inca Trail to Machu Piccchu, told from someone who walks it every season.
Day One: From Cusco to Huayllabamba
Our journey begins early. Today, our group includes travelers from the United States, India, and England—not a large group, but a friendly one. After picking everyone up in Cusco, we drive about 1 hour 40 minutes to Ollantaytambo, where we stop for breakfast at a local restaurant. Over breakfast, I ask essential questions: Have they hiked before? Done any training? Many tell me they're here because friends recommended the Inca Trail and raved about the experience of trekking for four days and arriving at Machu Picchu from its highest entrance point.
Many of our clients are referred by past travelers or find us through TripAdvisor—word of mouth remains our best marketing.
After breakfast, we head to Km 88 (Corihuayrachina), the official starting point of the Inca Trail. Here, we present our passports and permits to the control point rangers. I give a brief safety talk about responsible trekking and protecting the environment. Our cook and porters arrive to collect personal bags—it's the first time our clients meet Mario Huamán, our head cook, who's been preparing meals on high-altitude treks for over 20 years. He's cooked on the Inca Trail, Salkantay, Ausangate, Lares, and Choquequirao routes. His presence reassures everyone.
We begin our hike, following the same path that historian Hiram Bingham explored over a century ago—though he traveled the lower valley route near the Vilcanota River. We're taking the high route toward Warmihuañusca, where we'll encounter the first major pass. Everyone checks their backpacks one last time. We're ready.
The first day involves about six hours of hiking to Huayllabamba. We cross a bridge and walk toward our first archaeological site. The ascent gradually takes us to Willca Raccay (approximately 2,660 meters), where we can see the Patallacta complex. Many people confuse Patallacta with Llactapata—Llactapata is actually located near Machu Picchu itself.
As we hike for about four hours, I share stories about the site's history and its role during the Inca Empire, explaining the significance of the Vilcanota River below. The weather turns cool; light rain begins, and wind picks up, but we continue. Along the trail, we pass through the Wayllabamba canyon, observing native plants and listening to the calls of local birds. We encounter local residents who sell snacks to porters—items like chicha de jora (a traditional corn drink). Many doorways display red flags or ruda plants, symbols believed to bring good luck and attract customers.
For a first day, the hike is manageable. My clients seem energized and impressed. By evening, though, the cold hits hard—we're at altitude now. Tierras Vivas provides all camping equipment, including sleeping bags and hot water bottles. Mario fills water bottles with hot water and places them inside sleeping bags so the cold won't bite so hard. For me, accustomed to these highland temperatures, it's comfortable. For my clients, many of whom bought wool socks to layer inside their sleeping bags, it's a shock.
The night offers an unexpected gift: the sky above is filled with stars. Far from city lights, there's no light pollution here. The Milky Way stretches across the darkness.
Evening Rituals on the Trail
Once we reach camp, we gather for afternoon tea—hot water in thermoses with coca leaf infusions and muña (a traditional herb). We also have salted popcorn. This is when I share stories about Andean traditions and Inca history while we warm our hands on hot cups.
Then Mario calls us for dinner. Tonight: a vegetable soup, rice with mixed vegetables, salad, and coca tea or muña. My clients are amazed by the authentic Andean food prepared fresh at altitude. Muña is a remarkable plant—locals say it settles upset stomachs and helps with altitude discomfort. You can brew it fresh from the plants growing around us using hot water from a thermos. It even dyes sheep's wool. A plant with many uses, still thriving in the highlands of Cusco.
Day Two: The Toughest Climb to Warmihuañusca
At 5 AM, I wake everyone with "wake-up tea"—coca leaf mate that clears the fog from sleep and prepares your mind for the day. Some don't want to leave their sleeping bags. Some are reconsidering whether to continue. But the adventure is just beginning.
Our porters prepare washbasins with hot water so everyone can freshen up. I recommend keeping the small towels they provide—you'll use them throughout the trek.
Mario has prepared a nutritious breakfast: cereal, bread, fruit salad, orange pancakes, and yogurt. Everything was brought from Cusco. My clients eat with tired eyes, many wanting to return to their tents to sleep. But we have a trek ahead.
When someone jokes about helicopters and mentions that Aero Condor operates flights out of Warmihuañusca if anyone wants to leave, a few laugh. Others look uncomfortable—they hadn't realized how demanding this would be. I assure them: today is the hardest day, but not impossible.
Today we climb to 4,200 meters at Warmihuañusca. We secure our backpacks and begin. Our porters and cook stay behind to organize gear and move it to the next camp. The porters are remarkable—they climb carrying loads while we carry only our daypacks, yet many pass us on the trail while we're struggling with the altitude.
The hike from camp to Warmihuañusca takes seven to eight hours, which is why we start before sunrise. Along the way, we see impressive mountain peaks. My clients climb slowly, many breathing hard with exertion, but the porters pass with ease and smiles.
At the pass, we stop for photos and I explain the importance of respecting the mountains. I talk about apachetas—small stone cairns that mark the trail and serve as landmarks. For the Andean people, they also represent a greeting to the Apus (mountain spirits) and a request for safe passage. For me, they're a way to honor my ancestors. Our porter Hilario shares stories about crossing mountain passes.
After resting at the highest point, we descend to Pacaymayu, where we'll camp tonight. Day two is genuinely exhausting. The trekking poles that Tierras Vivas provided help keep everyone's knees and ankles safe throughout the descent.
Lunch today was light: a delicate broth, grilled trout, white rice, chicha morada (a sweet purple corn drink), fresh salad, fried yuca, and dessert—all served buffet-style with a presentation worthy of a restaurant.
Many clients skip dinner tonight. They want only tea, coffee, or hot chocolate—they're too tired to eat. I encourage them to have dinner anyway. Mario has prepared semolina soup, chicken rolls with fried rice, hot yuca, and coca tea. A few eat; most head straight to sleep.
Day Three: Descent Through Ancient Ruins
Another wake-up tea at 5 AM. My clients are smiling now, adjusting to the rhythm of the trek. This is our second-to-last day before reaching Machu Picchu.
Today we descend everything we climbed yesterday, though we start with one more climb to a 4,000-meter pass. After that, it's mostly downhill—which means today our knees and ankles take the punishment of hundreds (or thousands) of steps descending.
Day three offers multiple interesting archaeological sites, but they come at a cost: today is both the most interesting and the longest—about eight hours of walking, or more accurately, descending stairs. We trek through dense forest, enjoying the native flora of the Cusco cloud forest and the cool, refreshing air.
We visit two major archaeological sites: Runcuracay and Sayaqmarka.
Runcuracay was an ancient Inca control post. We stop for photos at a small lake, and if we're lucky, we spot tarukas—Andean deer that were revered by the Incas and held religious significance. Today they're taking water at the lake. Moments later, they disappear into the forest.
Sayaqmarka is believed to have been a control site based on its location. The ruins show narrow streets and passages, channels, and agricultural terraces built on steep terrain. There's only one way in and one way out—a staircase with over one hundred steps behind us.
Continuing the hike, we reach Puyupatamarca for lunch. Today's specialty: chicken soup, breaded chicken biscuit, salad, avocado, rice with mixed vegetables, and passion fruit juice. We refuel completely before the final push to Wiñay Wayna, where we'll spend our last night on the trail.
The Last Night: Saying Goodbye
Before dinner, we gather our porters to say goodbye. They've worked incredibly hard. Mario prepares our final meal with care—an Andean cake, fideos (noodle soup), sweet chicken with white rice, hot water, coca leaves, and muña. Many clients contribute a tip, recognizing the porters' hard work. Mario congratulates everyone for completing the trek. Handshakes and the Quechua word *tupananchis kama*—"until we meet again"—mark the moment. There's emotion in this goodbye.
Day Four: Arriving at Machu Picchu
We have an early breakfast to go. Mario wakes us before dawn, and I prepare everything for our entry to Machu Picchu. Some porters take an earlier route to board the 8:10 AM train back to Cusco. Two porters walk to Aguas Calientes (the town below Machu Picchu) to deposit the clients' bags at a local restaurant.
The final day is the shortest and happiest. Everyone races to leave camp early—if we arrive late at Intipunko (the Sun Gate), it's crowded with other trekkers and the view isn't as special. Today is also when we finally see Machu Picchu, and it requires the least walking. From Wiñay Wayna to Machu Picchu takes about three hours.
At Intipunko, Machu Picchu appears. Our moment has arrived. My clients are overwhelmed—some cry, others stand speechless, staring at the Inca architecture. We descend for an hour, exploring the citadel. From the main platform, I explain the construction techniques and we take panoramic photos. We pass through the checkpoint for a final document review.
We enter Machu Picchu via Gate Three (Circuit 3), which allows exploration of the entire citadel. I guide the group for three hours, explaining the temples, residences, and engineering. Afterward, we take a bus down to Aguas Calientes, where I return clients' bags from the restaurant. They board the return train at 5:00 PM on PeruRail. I say goodbye and let them know Tierras Vivas will have a driver waiting at Ollantaytambo train station to drive them to their hotels in Cusco.
The Inca Trail is complete.
My Take on the Inca Trail
In my opinion, the entire Inca Trail trek is beautiful. It has countless moments worth experiencing—you're walking the same stone paths that Inca nobility once traveled. You learn about the chasquis (Inca messengers). You stand in the heart of the Peruvian cloud forest in awe. But none of this can be enjoyed if you don't genuinely like being outdoors, hiking for long hours, or if you're not in reasonably good physical condition.
You don't need to be an elite athlete, but you do need enough fitness to climb stairs for hours or walk steadily for four hours straight. Even at a slow pace, it's genuinely demanding.
Ready to Experience It Yourself?
I hope this account captured what it's like to walk the Inca Trail as a guide. I haven't explained every historical detail or cultural nuance—I wanted to keep this readable rather than overwhelming. But if you want the full experience, the stories, the food, the mountains, and the memories, come trek with Tierras Vivas. Reservations for the 2027 season are now open.
Your adventure is waiting.
